2. Pull up on grip to remove from factory Grip frame.
3. For HP use M5 allen to remove M6 screw, For SF use M4 allen to remove M5 screw. ***DO NOT REUSE THIS SCREW WITH THE GRIP ADAPTER***
4. Remove factory grip frame.
5. Place Black Arts Design Grip Adapter at rear of trigger guard, ensure it is keyed to the back of the trigger guard.
6. Using the screw supplied from Black Arts Design insert and tighten. ***We recommend using a REMOVABLE LOW STRENGTH thread locker such as Vibra-TITE VC-3.***
7. Only use a 1/4×28 screw. We recommend 1 inch length to ensure maximum purchase area. Pre-inserting it into the grip can be helpful.
8. Position grip on grip adapter and gently seat it.
9. Carefully tighten the 1/4×28 screw ensuring not to cross thread it. If you feel unusual resistance back out and ensure the screw and threads are lined up properly. We recommend using either a star washer, or, a lock washer along with a flat washer.
****PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE BLACK ARTS DESIGN BARREL BAND ENSURE YOUR AIR RIFLE IS UNLOADED AND IN A SAFE CONFIGURATION!!*****Make sure you have an established zero prior to installation.
Remove the thread protector, moderator, or sound suppression device.
The silver arrows on the inside of the barrel band must point towards the muzzle. It helps to remove the fill probe cover to aid in installation. Carefully slip on the shroud section, with the two bushings, onto the shroud. It will be a tight fit. You can use a twisting motion to overcome the leading edge of the shroud.
Align the Barrel Band with the air tube and slide it on. There should be resistance but not from the lower section. If the lower section will not slip on easily loosen the M3 screw a little further using a 2.5mm allen key.
The barrel band can be fixed at any point along the barrel but not in contact with the fill probe cover or the plastic stock.
Do not tighten the Barrel Band yet. We highly recommend shooting 10 to 20 shots to let the barrel band and rifle ‘settle’. Also take this opportunity to check your zero, elevation is not a concern at this point but if your windage has shifted drastically from your prior zero twist the barrel band very gently until your shots are centered.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!! Using a 2.5mm allen key carefully tighten the single M3 cap screw with a 2.5mm allen key ***Do not attempt to close the gap between the two sides, a gap should remain after snugging the screw***
Zero your rifle and make any minor adjustments needed. If you have a large elevation or windage change repeat steps 2 through 8.
This completes the installation. The barrel band can lead to a shift from the pre-Barrel Band POI. Based on measurements taken from an unmodified factory rifle the barrel and air tube are not completely parallel with each other. Therefore, the location you place the Barrel Band can impact the degree of elevation change depending on where along the length of the air tube/barrel it is placed. However, any changes should be minor and easily rectified with a slight scope adjustment. If you have an extreme left or right POI shift ensure the Barrel Band is not skewed or ‘twisted’ and repeat steps 4 through 8.
Identify the proper orientation of the adapter as shown in the images below. Matte side faces away from the scope or out.
2. (HELIX) Place the adapter onto Parallax knob as shown in picture, ensure the contours of the adapter are aligned with the contours of the Parallax knob, and is centered over both ridges.
2. (TITAN/NEXUS) Place adapter onto Parallax knob as shown in picture, ensure the contours of the adapter are aligned with the contours of the Parallax knob, and is centered over the two inner ridges.
3. Once adapter is situated correctly place the half with the brass heat set inserts onto the adapter as pictured. Adapter, matte side out, Throw flat side out.
4. Place second half of throw on adapter, again flat side out, insert the M3 cap screws and tighten them alternately until there is no gap between the parts. Once the gap is closed simply snug them up. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN.
5. The throw is designed to be used as a tactile zero stop. By setting the parallax at a known distance and then installing the parallax throw with the long arm pointing in a specific direction, for example aligned with the elevation turret, a shooter can easily return to this known parallax setting without breaking from their sight picture. No need to look out of the scope to read the numbers on the side. If this setting needs to be changed simply loosen the throw and reset the position of the throw.
AEA Zeus (Gen2) .72 & .58. and Challenger Pro Barrel Band Installation
The Zeus Barrel Band is designed to be a tight fitting part. There are rubberized bushings in the barrel section. They are designed to allow a very close tolerance fit as well as provide some dampening effect.
It is best to have an established zero prior to installation of the barrel band. This is the only way to verify any large change in windage or elevation. There should be very little change in elevation or windage. But, if any twist was instigated upon the installation there may be a significant windage change. If this occurs see notes at end.
**MAKE SURE THE RIFLE IS IN A SAFE CONFIGURATION BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION**
There are silver arrows on the inner diameter of the air tube section. These arrows must point toward the muzzle end of the rifle.
The Barrel thread protector can be on or off, off seems to aid on getting the Barrel Band slipped over the end of the barrel. Carefully ease the barrel band over the end of the barrel or thread protector. If needed, you can rotate the barrel band back and forth to assist in getting it started onto the barrel.
Once the top portion is on the barrel itself, align the lower portion with the air tube. It takes some finesse to get it over the fitting at the end of the air tube. Push it on by alternating movement from the top and then the bottom of the barrel band. Ease it onto the air tube carefully.
We recommend setting it close to the middle of the white lettering near the end of the air tube. However, the Barrel Band can be affixed at any location the user prefers.
Try to ensure you have not instigated twisting during installation. You can slide it back and forth several inches a few times to get it re-centered.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!! Using a 2.5mm allen key carefully tighten the cap head screws alternating from left to right until they are snug. Do not overtighten.
You are ready to zero the rifle.
If there are large windage changes to your zero, a minor change is not significant and should be adjusted with the scope, some twisting may have been instigated upon installation. If so, loosen the 2.5 mm screws, and gently re-center the barrel. Check the zero and then tighten the barrel band. Again, check zero.
1. Pre-Assemble the parts as shown below, take note of the orientation and position of the silver arrows.
2. Place the left side component, with brass inserts, on the Saber Tactical Chassis and ensure part is fully seated against the chassis.
3. Take the right side assembly from step one and place it on the chassis frame. Screws should be protruding from the part as seen in the image below. Fully seat the assembly against the chassis.
4. Tighten the lower screw with a 2mm allen key. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. It takes little force to hold the magazine holder in place.
5. Tighten the upper screw. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. You will know it is snugged well when the silver aluminum tube can no longer rotate. Use a finger to test for rotation as you tighten.
6. Insert and remove the magazine several times, there should only be slight resistance and only when twisting the magazine into the locked in position. If there is excessive resistance, repeat steps 5 and 6 and test again.
Black Arts Design Air Venturi Avenger (Gen2) Barrel Band System Installation
Please follow the steps below in installing the Black Arts Design (Gen2) Barrel Band System for the Air Venturi Avenger.
Shoot and zero your rifle in its current configuration at your preferred distance. Establish as consistent a group as possible with a solid zero. This will provide you a reference for changes to left and right POI.
Install the Barrel Band system.
Forend Bracket
Remove the plastic forend. There are 3 small pieces that will fall out during the process, keep a close eye out for loose parts during the process.
Loosen the grub screws located in the factory barrel band, do so carefully and do not remove them all the way. There are some small plastic bits on the end of the screws (some models) which can and will fall out… never to be found as they are tiny!
Slide off the factory barrel band carefully. You may notice a large rise in the barrel upon removal as the factory barrel band pulls the barrel down from its freed position quite a bit.
With the factory barrel band removed you are ready to install the Black Arts Design Forend Bracket. It is the component with 2 allen screws inserted in its sides.
Remove the 2 allen screws from the forend bracket using a 2.5mm allen key. Slide this part onto the end of the lower air tube.
Install the left plastic forend half (when orienting from the top of the rifle) and ensure the picatinny rail is fitted properly to that side.
There is a slot on the front bottom of both sides of the forend. The rectangular shaped bottom section of the Stock Bracket (with the brass heat set insert) will fit right into this slot. You may need to slightly move the Forend Bracket forward until it fits into the slot.
Locate the M3 screw, smallest of the screws removed, and insert it into the forward screw hole of the picatinny rail. This will thread into the heat set insert within the supplied Forend Bracket with a 2.0 mm allen key. Do not tighten, just start it into the threads.
Snap on the right-side plastic forend section onto the rifle. Make sure all the little parts (2 of them) are in their correct locations.
Take the supplied M4 screws and install them into the 2 forward holes on each side of the forend. Do not fully tighten just start them into the threads using a 2.5 mm allen key. These 2 screws replace the M5 screws that came with the rifle.
Install all remaining screws loosely.
Tighten the M3 screw located at the forward position of the picatinny rail first, snug it up but not fully tight.
Tighten the 2 forward side screws, the M4’s supplied with the parts, alternately until snug. Tighten the remaining screws, the M3 screw at the bottom of the stock and then the 2 M5’s screws on the sides at the rear of the forend.
Tighten all remaining screws. Do not overtighten the screws attached to the Stock Bracket Part! They need to be snug but no need to crank them down as it could damage the part or the plastic forend.
Barrel Band
****PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE BLACK ARTS DESIGN BARREL BAND ENSURE YOUR AIR RIFLE IS UNLOADED AND IN A SAFE CONFIGURATION!!*****Make sure you have an established zero prior to installation.
Remove the thread protector, moderator, or sound suppression device.
The silver arrows on the inside of the air tube section must point towards the muzzle. It helps to remove the fill probe cover to aid in installation. Carefully slip on the shroud section, with the two bushings, onto the shroud. It will be a tight fit. You can use a twisting motion to overcome the leading edge of the shroud.
Align the Barrel Band with the air tube and slide it on. There should be resistance but not from the lower section. If the lower section will not slip on easily loosen the M3 screw a little further using a 2.5mm allen key.
The barrel band can be fixed at any point along the barrel but not in contact with the fill probe cover or the plastic forend.
Do not tighten the Barrel Band yet. We highly recommend shooting 10 to 20 shots to let the barrel band and rifle ‘settle’. Also take this opportunity to check your zero, elevation is not a concern at this point but if your windage has shifted drastically from your prior zero twist the barrel band very gently until your shots are centered.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!! Using a 2.5mm allen key carefully tighten the single M3 cap screw with a 2.5mm allen key ***Do not attempt to close the gap between the two sides, a gap should remain after snugging the screw***
Zero your rifle and make any minor adjustments needed. If you have a large elevation or windage change repeat steps 2 through 8.
This completes the installation. The barrel band can lead to a shift from the pre-Barrel Band POI. Based on measurements taken from an unmodified factory rifle the barrel and air tube are not completely parallel with each other. Therefore, the location you place the Barrel Band can impact the degree of elevation change depending on where along the length of the air tube/barrel it is placed. However, any changes should be minor and easily rectified with a slight scope adjustment. If you have an extreme left or right POI shift from pre-barrel the screw and ensure the Barrel Band is not skewed or ‘twisted’ and repeat steps 4 through 8.
****PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE BLACK ARTS DESIGN BARREL BAND ENSURE YOUR AIR RIFLE IS UNLOADED AND IN A SAFE CONFIGURATION!!*****Make sure you have an established a zero prior to installation.
Remove the thread protector, moderator, or sound suppression device.
The silver arrows on the inside of the air tube section must point towards the muzzle. Carefully slip on the shroud section, with the two bushings, onto the shroud. It will be a tight fit. You can use a twisting motion to overcome the leading edge of the shroud.
Align the Barrel Band with the CF bottle and slide it onto the CF bottle. There should be resistance but not from the lower section. If the lower section will not slip on easily loosen the two cap screws further using a 2.5mm allen key.
The barrel band can be affixed at any point from the front of the bottle to the mid-section, just before the bulged area where the labeling appears on the bottle. Placing it on this bulged area is not recommended.
Do not tighten the Barrel Band yet. We highly recommend shooting 10 to 20 shots to let the barrel band and rifle ‘settle’. Also take this opportunity to check your zero, elevation is not a concern at this point but if your windage has shifted drastically from your prior zero twist the barrel band very gently until your shots are centered.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!! Using a 2.5mm allen key carefully tighten the cap screws alternating from left to right until they are snug. ***Do not attempt to close the gap between the two sides, a gap should remain after snugging the screws***
Zero your rifle and make any minor adjustments needed. If you have a large elevation or windage changes repeat steps 2 through 8.
AEA Zeus (Gen1), Challenger Standard (unshrouded), and Element Max Barrel Band Installation
Black Arts Design Barrel Bands are designed to be a snug fitting part. There are rubberized bushings in the barrel section. They are designed to allow a very close tolerance fit as well as provide some dampening effect.
It is best to have an established zero prior to installation of the barrel band. This is the only way to verify any large change in windage or elevation. There should be very little change in elevation or windage. But, if any twist was instigated upon the installation there may be a significant windage change. If this occurs see notes at end.
**MAKE SURE THE RIFLE IS IN A SAFE CONFIGURATION BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION**
There is a silver sharpie arrow on the inner diameter of the air tube section. This arrow must point toward the muzzle end of the rifle.
Remove the thread protector from the end of the barrel to aid in getting the Barrel Band slipped over the end of the barrel. Carefully ease the barrel band over the end of the barrel using a slight rocking and twisting motion.
Once the top portion is on the barrel, align the lower portion with the air tube and slide it on. Make sure the 3mm cap screw is sufficiently loosened and push it past the gold colored cap at the end of the air tube.
Now the barrel band can be pushed evenly down the length of the barrel.
The location is up to the user, however, it was designed to be positioned approximately 2 to 3 inches from the end of the air tube. .
The barrel band is tight enough to move and hold the barrel left or right of center even before tightening it down. Try to ensure you have not instigated twisting during installation. You can slide it back and forth several inches a few times to get it re-centered.
Using a 2.5mm allen key, tighten the cap head screw found on the side of the barrel band. Large amounts of torque are not needed but it should be firmly snugged up. Too much force can damage the part.
You are ready to zero the rifle.
If there are large windage changes to your zero, a minor change is not significant and should be adjusted with the scope, some twisting may have been instigated upon installation. If so, loosen the 2.5 mm screw, and gently re-center the barrel. Check the zero and then tighten the barrel band. Again, check zero.
AEA HP SS Folding Butt Stock Magnetic Closure Installation
***** IMPORTANT This product uses very powerful neodymium magnets. The strong magnetic fields near neodymium magnets can affect pacemkers, ICD’s, and other implanted medical devises. If you use a pacemaker, ICD, or other implanted medical device consult your Medical Doctor before using this product.**** Neodymium magnets produce strong magnetic fields. Avoid placing any electronic devices in the vicinity of the magnetic media.****
Remove the butt stock from the rifle by rotating the butt stock counter-clockwise.
Slip the Black Arts Design magnetic closure clasp onto the folding stock adapter with the magnets facing the hinged side (opposite from the release lever).
Slide the magnetic closure almost to the front of the threaded section of the folding mechanism, the section where the butt stock threads into.
Carefully close the folding stock adapter ensuring ¼ circular section where the magnet are aligns with the steel ring closest to the receiver section of the AEA rifle.
Make sure the magnetic closure is not catching or getting hung up.
Keep the folding stock adapter closed and ensure the magnetic clasp and the metal ring are mated together. While holding the magnetic closure in this position tighten the M3 screw using a 2.5 mm allen key. Snug it tight but do not overtighten!
Replace the butt stock onto the rifle.
Operate the folding stock and check for proper alignment and movement.
Do not allow the stock to ‘slam closed’ The neodymium magnets are brittle and can crack or break.
Black Arts Design Air Venturi Avenger Barrel Band System Installation
Please follow the steps below in installing the Black Arts Design Barrel Band System for the Air Venturi Avenger.
Shoot and zero your rifle in its current configuration at your preferred distance. Establish as consistent a group as possible with a solid zero. This will provide you a reference for changes to left and right POI.
Install the Barrel Band system.
Forend Bracket
Remove the plastic forend. There are 3 small pieces that will fall out during the process, keep a close eye out for loose parts during the process.
Loosen the grub screws located in the factory barrel band, do so carefully and do not remove them all the way. There are some small plastic bits on the end of the screws (some models) which can and will fall out… never to be found as they are tiny!
Slide off the factory barrel band carefully. You may notice a very large rise in the barrel upon removal as the factory barrel band pulls the barrel down from its freed position quite a bit.
With the factory barrel band removed you are ready to install the Black Arts Design Forend Bracket. It is the component with 2 allen screws inserted in its sides.
Remove the 2 allen screws from the forend bracket using a 2.5mm allen key. Slide this part onto the end of the lower air tube.
Install the left plastic forend half (when orienting from the top of the rifle) and ensure the picatinny rail is fitted properly to that side.
There is a slot on the front bottom of both sides of the forend. The rectangular shaped bottom section of the Stock Bracket (with the brass heat set insert) will fit right into this slot. You may need to slightly move the Forend Bracket forward until it fits into the slot.
Locate the M3 screw, smallest of the screws removed, and insert it into the forward screw hole of the picatinny rail. This will thread into the heat set insert within the supplied Forend Bracket with a 2.0 mm allen key. Do not tighten, just start it into the threads.
Snap on the right-side plastic forend section onto the rifle. Make sure all the little parts (2 of them) are in their correct locations.
Take the supplied M4 screws and install them into the 2 forward hole on each side of the forend. Do not fully tighten just start them into the threads using a 2.5 mm allen key. These 2 screws replace the M5 screws that came with the rifle.
Install all remaining screws loosely.
Tighten the M3 screw located at the forward position of the picatinny rail first, snug it up but not fully tight.
Tighten the 2 forward side screws, the M4’s supplied with the parts, alternately until snug. Tighten the remaining screws, the M3 screw at the bottom of the stock and then the 2 M5’s screws on the sides at the rear of the forend.
Tighten all remaining screws. Do not overtighten the screws attached to the Stock Bracket Part! They need to be snug but no need to crank them down as it could damage the part or the plastic forend.
Barrel Band
Slip the ¾ circle end of the Barrel Band onto the Shroud, use a twisting motion to ease it on. If you have any issues with this contact Black Arts Design. It should take some effort but not excessive force.
Slide it along the barrel until you reach the air tube
Ensure the full circular end is aligned with the air tube, slide this down the air tube and shroud by pushing it along the length. Avoid instigating a twist when sliding it along the air tube and shroud. This fitment should be tight but should not require excessive force. If it does not readily slide onto your rifle contact Black Arts Design.
The Barrel Band can be positioned at the location of your choosing and placement along the length can increase or decrease elevation slightly. It was designed to be positioned close to the forend but DO NOT ALLOW IT TO TOUCH.
Now that it is installed go back to your target and take 10 to 20 shots to allow the barrel, shroud, and Barrel Band to settle.
Check for left or right POI shifts. A slight left or right shift is not uncommon whenever removing or installing components related to the barrel. If you have an extreme shift left or right, you can twist the barrel band very carefully to get close to center.
Once you have taken 10 to 20 shots and established left or right POI shift is minimal or corrected move to the next step.
****IMPORTANT – READ FIRST****DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! It takes very little force to secure the Barrel Band to the air tube. Verify it is secure by simply pushing gently forward and backward on the base of the Barrel Band. Once there is no movement the Barrel Band is secured. Using a 1.5mm allen key tighten the 2 grub screws on the bottom of the Barrel Band. Place the longest end of the allen key in the grub screw and use the short end of the key to tighten the grub screws. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Tighten them incrementally and alternately until snug. Only snug the grub screws until the Barrel Band is secure using the method in the bolded text at the beginning of this step. Using too much torque on these screws will result in changing the fitment and causing the Barrel Band to ‘oval’ and it can impact the fit of the Barrel Band to the barrel as well. Again, it takes very little torque on the grub screws to secure the Barrel Band.
This completes the installation. The barrel band can lead to a shift from the pre-Barrel Band POI. Based on measurements taken from an unmodifed factory rifle the barrel and air tube are not completely parallel with each other. Therefore, the location you place the Barrel Band can impact the degree of elevation change depending on where along the length of the air tube/barrel it is placed. However, any changes should be minor and easily rectified with a slight elevation adjustment. If you have an extreme left or right POI shift from pre-barrel band loosen the grub screws and ensure the Barrel Band is not skewed or ‘twisted’ and repeat steps d through h.
****PRIOR TO INSTALLING THE BLACK ARTS DESIGN BARREL BAND ENSURE YOUR AIR RIFLE IS UNLOADED AND IN A SAFE CONFIGURATION!!*****Make sure you have an established zero prior to installation.
Remove the thread protector, Moderator, or Sound Suppression device.
The silver arrows on the inside of the air tube section must point towards the muzzle. Carefully slip on the shroud section, with the two bushings, onto the shroud. It will be a tight fit. You can use a twisting motion to overcome the leading edge of the shroud.
Align the Barrel Band with the air tube and slide it onto the air tube, there should be resistance but not from the lower section. If the lower section will not slip on easily loosen the two cap screws further using a 2.5mm allen key.
Ensure the Barrel Band is not in contact with the stock, riding on the press fitted ring at the end of the air tube and do not mount it on the dust cover.
Do not tighten the Barrel Band yet. We highly recommend shooting 10 to 20 shots to let the barrel band and rifle ‘settle’. Also take this opportunity to check your zero, elevation is not a concern at this point but if your windage has shifted drastically from your prior zero twist the barrel band very gently until your shots are centered.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!! Using a 2.5mm allen key carefully tighten the cap screws alternating from left to right until they are snug. Do not overtighten.
Zero your rifle and make any minor adjustments needed.
This completes the installation. The barrel band can lead to a shift from the pre-Barrel Band POI. Based on measurements taken from an unmodified factory rifle the barrel and air tube are not completely parallel with each other. Therefore, the location you place the Barrel Band can impact the degree of elevation change depending on where along the length of the air tube/barrel it is placed. However, any changes should be minor and easily rectified with a slight scope adjustments. If you have a large elevation or windage change repeat steps 1 through 8.
Welcome to the first blog for BLACK ARTS DESIGN. It was a journey to develop a product line, launch the website and share the first blog. This journey was made possible with Additive Manufacturing. Mainly the category of Additive Manufacturing, known as 3D Printing. There are a plethora of 3D printing technologies and materials. The most commonly used 3D printing technology is known as FDM, or Fused Deposition Modeling. In FDM, a part is built up by extruding molten plastic through a nozzle, depositing it layer by layer on a build platform to form a 3-dimensional object. Obviously, a simplified explanation but that is basically all there is to it. Squirt out some plastic layer upon layer in a controlled pattern to create an object. But this simple process allows for incredibly complex items to be accurately produced.
3D printing creates opportunities to build objects with complex internal structures. For example, it is possible to print internal features which would either be impossible or extremely costly to machine or injection mold. This ability to build a complex internal structure can be seen in the image below.
This is a cross section of a component of the BLACK ARTS DESIGN SideView. The surfaces in red forms a pocket having an overhang which would be costly to create any other way. Machining would be challenging as the cutting tool would be need to cut a pocket approximately .75mm larger than its entry point. Injection molding this pocket would be possible but cost prohibitive. This type of internal structure is a simple task for 3D printing and presents the opportunity for the SideView’s living hinge design.
3D printing is not the solution to all challenges, but it opens significant opportunities. 3D printing and Additive Manufacturing as a whole, create opportunities subtractive manufacturing, i.e. CNC machining, is incapable of embracing. For example, subtractive manufacturing requires costly tooling, jigs, fixtures, and machinery. Evolving and modifying a production part is expensive and time consuming. 3D printing allows a production part to be modified seamlessly with no disruption to a production line. A part can be modified in CAD on day one, tested on day two, and put into the existing unmodified production line on day three. The evolution of an idea and the modification of the product can morph quickly based on customer feedback and a designer’s ‘AhHa’ moments. That is why BLACK ARTS DESIGN carries the motto, There is no such thing as “good enough”.
Thank you for visiting BLACK ARTS DESIGN and reading our first blog. Stay tuned for additional blogs discussing Additive Manufacturing!
Slip the protector(s) onto the exterior of the gauge ensuring the gauge protector does not cover the markings on the gauge. The protector(s) will stretch slightly over the gauge and require a small level of effort to seat around the gauge.
Push them over the gauge until the inner lip slips over the bottom of the gauge and the top of the protector is seated against the top of the gauge body.
Your gauge is now protected from bumps and knocks. Enjoy!
Remove the sling swivel at the bottom of the butt stock by turning it counterclockwise. This is used to lock the adjustment wheel in position or release it to adjust the cheek riser height.
Remove the rubber buttpad. There are 2 phillips head screws holding the buttpad on. Carefully remove these 2 screws with a phillips head screw driver.
Under the buttpad there is a plastic plate held on by 2 phillips head screws, the screws are at the top and are side by side. Remove these 2 screws and identify the orientation of the plate, both sides look the same (place a mark with a silver sharpie to avoid confusion in re-assembly).
With one hand rotate the cheek riser adjustment wheel clockwise, raising the cheek riser, and with the other hand gently pull up on the cheek riser. You may need to slightly wiggle the cheek riser to prevent it catching on the internals of the butt stock. Continue to do this until the cheek riser is freed from the butt stock.
Look into the cavity of the buttstock where the cheek riser resided. You will see a small screw on top of the aluminum ‘pinion gear’. Remove this screw with a small phillips head screw driver.
Before removing any additional parts go back to the rear of the buttstock. Underneath the 2 screws which held on the plastic plate is a cavity. Within this cavity is a spring plunger which functions as a detent. This should be backed out before proceeding, back it out 5 or 6 turns.
Look into the cavity where the cheek riser resided. You will see a threaded hole in the aluminum pinion gear. Take the cheek riser and thread it back into this hole, 3 or 4 turns is all that is needed. Now using the cheek riser lift out the pinion gear.
Now slide the steel adjuster wheel out of the slot on the side of the butt stock.
With the 2 original metal parts removed you can proceed to install the lightweight 3D printed versions.
Slide the 3D printed adjuster wheel through the slot on the side of the butt stock making sure the raised gear shaped portion is facing down.
Now drop in the 3D printed ‘pinion gear’ through the top of the buttstock and make sure the small hole is oriented to align with the small hole in the adjuster wheel. Check the length of the supplied flat head phillips screw against the stock screw. If they differ in length use the supplied screw. Install the flat head screw through the pinion gear and tighten it carefully. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! As you tighten this screw check the movement of the adjuster wheel, if it begins to bind the small screw is too tight, back it out until the adjuster wheel rotates freely. You should feel the detent as you turn the adjuster wheel.
It is necessary to adjust the spring plunger, this is the spring plunger accessed through the back of the stock referenced earlier. If it is too tight it will wear a groove in the 3D printed part and fail to operate properly. You should feel the spring plunger drop into the detent of the pinion gear with very little resistance in between turns of the adjustment wheel.
Now thread the cheek riser into the pinion gear, via the brass threaded insert in the 3D printed part. Align the cheek riser with the buttstock and rotate the adjuster wheel counterclockwise. Turn the adjuster wheel counter clockwise until it is at its lowest position. This is a hard stop. Do not continue to rotate after it had hit its lowest point as you can damage the parts.
Once the cheek riser is at its lowest point you can fine tune the detent. Again, you should feel the spring plunger drop into the detent, but it should not give resistance to turning the adjuster wheel.
Re-install the plastic plate, insert the 2 screws, the ones which are side by side near the top and tighten carefully. These thread into plastic within the buttstock and can be stripped.
Install the buttpad using the 2 screws you removed in step 1. Again, tighten them carefully as they thread into plastic and can be easily stripped.
You are now ready to set your cheek riser height. Keep in mind that attempting to exceed the maximum range of the cheek riser can damage the stock and or the 3D printed parts. When the wheel hits a point of difficulty turning it has reached its maximum range. Turing it further will only damage the stock or the 3D printed parts and will not increase the Cheek risers’ range of motion.
Replace the sling swivel in the bottom of the stock by rotating it clockwise. IMPORTANT: As you tighten the sling swivel wiggle the adjustment wheel back and forth, don’t turn it just wiggle it, and continue turning the sling swivel. Once you feel the wheel will not wiggle anymore turn the sling swivel until it is appropriately aligned. If you over tighten this it will punch through the 3D printed part damaging it.
Align the hole in the dust cover at the end of the air tube with the fill port as if you are preparing to fill the air tube.
The SideView can be installed to view from either the right or the left. Determine which side you would like to view your air tube pressure gauge from.
Align either hinged side or the thumb catch side just shy of touching the barrel. This ensures the Dust Cover can rotate enough to expose the fill port and enough to cover the fill port to keep it clean.
Slip the SideView part way onto the dust cover, about halfway.
Remove the dust cover along with the SideView. Position the thumbs of both hands opposite the SideView, place your index fingers and middle fingers under the mirrored cap and on the rim of the flexible portion of the SideView. Squeeze your thumbs and fingers together pressing the SideView onto the dust cover until it is fully seated.
Ensure the SideView opens and closes smoothly.
The SideView was installed, checked, and adjusted at Black Arts Design so should not need further adjustments. If the SideView is not closing flush, or, gets hung up excessively upon closing it is possible to make an adjustment. Only make adjustments after the SideView is installed on the Dust Cover. Proper functioning of the part requires the slight stretch which is instigated on the parts only when it is installed. The living hinge can be pulled out slightly or pushed in slightly from the two captive pockets. Very slightadjustments are all that is required. The magnetic clasp can also be adjusted slightly. Within the flexible housing there is an allen screw which can be turned in or out if needed. Do this using a 1.5mm allen key.
Reinstall the dust cover to the air tube.
Turn the dust cover to ensure it can rotate far enough to expose the fill port and far enough to cover the fill port.
Enjoy reading your gauge conveniently and safely without pointing the dangerous end near your face and head!
The gauge reflection is reversed when viewing through the SideView. It will not take long for your mind to adjust to reading the gauge in the reflection. Marking your high and low points for quick reference with thin colored tape is also an option for quicker reading of the gauge.
